The unsung hero of the footwear world

By, Geoffery Milder

It amazes me that people come into the store (The Trail Shop) content to walk, hike, or run in cotton tube socks. Sure, the benefit of cotton socks is that you can buy them by the dozen for about three dollars a pair, but really, other than their cost what benefit do they provide? Once wet, cotton tends to lose its shape and perhaps more interestingly, begins to conduct heat away from your foot. Couple this with the knowledge that your feet contain 250,000 sweat glands, which during an active eight-hour period are capable of producing half a cup of water per foot. Immediately one begins to recognize that moisture management becomes an important component of any sock we choose. If we can keep our feet drier, and ultimately happier, then we reduce the risk of one of the most aggravating (and preventable) foot ailments to plague athletes since the dawn of time: blisters. Blisters are a caused by friction, friction that generally occurs when our socks get wet and begin to stick to our feet. The moment that we reduce friction, we inhibit the opportunity to create blisters. This is why, when you turn a premium sock inside-out, you’ll typically notice a soft terrycloth-like loop finish on the interior. The purpose of the loop finish is four-fold; to reduce friction around the foot, to provide capillary action that draws moisture from around the foot to the exterior of the sock where it can be evaporated at a maximum rate, to enhance shock absorption, and to optimize volume inside your shoe for a better fit.

So how do you choose a good sock? It’s important to know that there are many great sock manufacturers on the market these days. Some of the best are Smartwool and  Wigwam. These two companies (and more) produce premium socks, and yet people will inevitably have their personal favorites. Before you choose a brand, it is important to determine the properties that you feel are important in your socks. There are dozens of materials that may be used in the average sock: nylon, acrylic, polyester, merino wool, and spandex to name a few. When you look at the packaging of socks, you may also be confronted with a litany of patented materials like CoolMax, Outlast, or Holofiber. For now, let’s simply say that socks can fall into two general categories: natural and synthetic.

The preeminent natural fibre used in technical socks is merino wool. Although not all Merino wool is created equal, in most cases it represents a very soft, narrow filament wool that holds all the benefits of a traditional medium or coarse-grade wool (inhibits scent, manages moisture) without the traditional drawbacks like itchiness. Merino wool socks are typically tightly woven, and won’t feel like a cheese grater on your feet after a couple of hours wear like the socks Nana used to knit you for Christmas. Perhaps the most appealing feature of a merino wool sock is its ability to keep your feet warm even when wet, an important consideration depending on the seasonal use. For this reason it’s the ideal choice for people that suffer from cold clammy feet. Women in general have colder feet than men (“cold feet, warm hearts,” the saying goes) because they keep more of their body heat in their core. Differences in circulation between the genders aside, merino wool is for anyone that wants a premium sock made from a natural fibre.

Synthetic socks are made from a variety of oil-based materials­–polyester, acrylic, and nylon. The wicking performance of synthetic socks is arguably superior to merino wool, and there is little question about their superior durability, but synthetics have their limitations too. Unless you have the body heat to get the wicking ability of synthetic sock working, it’s just going to feel like a cold sock. Another shortcoming of synthetics is that, at the end of the day when you take your shoes off, everyone else will know you’ve taken your shoes off (they can get a little gamey in the scent department).  This isn’t usually a problem for day activities where you have the opportunity to change your socks when you get home. On multi-day trips however, your tent-mate’s opinion of your smelly socks might fall somewhere between the effect of chemical weapons and weapons of mass destruction.

Of course, the properties of the materials won’t be optimized unless the sock fits. Almost all companies will have a suggested shoe size range for their socks, and that’s a good starting point. However, if you find yourself on the borderline between a medium and a large, it’s good to know how a sock should fit. Put on your prospective sock. It shouldn’t feel as though it’s curling your toes under. Take a look at the heel seam of the sock. It should rest at a 45-degree angle (approximately) at the apex of your heel. If the seam rests farther in front of your heel, try a larger size. If the seam rests above the heel, try a smaller size.